This will make sure raw edges of the bias tape are covered when you’re done. « Batman and Robin Costume DIY – with free pants pattern! To achieve a smooth finish, I bound this curvy hem with self-bias binding. For the second of the Indie Pattern Month challenges on The Monthly Stitch, I’ve made two Sewaholic Granville button down shirts. Single fold bias tape is essentially a long strip of fabric with both ends already folded under so that it is ready for use. Single fold bias is used to hem curved edges, for example on a circle skirt, and around neck lines. Use your edgestitch foot if you have one – it helps you get consistent stitching at this step. Bias tape on the other hand is a thin band of material which is cut “on the bias.” A bias simply means an angle of 45 degrees across the fabric. Change ), You are commenting using your Facebook account. It can be tricky to sew a curved hem. Because bias tape is cut on the bias, it can stretch around curves to lie flat. This technique works best on dress pants and on fabrics that don’t have a crease worn in at the hem. In this tutorial youll learn how to sew single fold bias binding for armscye but the same principle works for any curved or straight edge. I will be making the Granville shirt sometime in the near future, so great tip! Mar 13, 2019 - Finishing a curved hem with bias tape // Kalle Shirtdress pattern Sewalong via @closetcasepatt To do this, first go find yourself one of these handy dandy tools: Mine is a Dritz Quilting brand 1/2″ (12 mm) bias tape maker. 3. I tried a few different finishing methods when this pattern was in development, and ultimately bias tape gave the neatest finish. Give it one more good press and you have a beautiful pucker-free curved hem. your own Pins on Pinterest My mother couldn’t see a button on. 3. #toomanygirlsinhere. – Blank Slate Sewing Team ». Lol! This one just folds up the 1/4″ on each raw edge, leaving a 1/2″ wide strip  down the center. If you have a complete circle to hem, you’ll have to join the beginning to the end (that will have to wait for a different tutorial though). To finish up, I’ll show you some of the other things you can do with bias tape. at Walmart and save. Fold the bias tape over, which will hide the seam created in Step 2. Heather Handmade shows how you can lengthen pants using a bias tape hem. By using bias tape to sew the hem, you can use that fabric that is typically turned to the back for the hem to get a little extra length in the legs. You fold once and use very close zig-zag stitches (buttonhole kind of stitch) to cover the fold. After you get started, try pinning the starting end down to your ironing board to keep it in place, then draw the bias maker down the length of the strip keeping your iron close to the folded strip coming out of the bias maker. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases through my affiliate links. Love this!! At the beginning of the tape fold it up about 1/2″. Bias tape is commonly used in armholes, necklines, straps, or ties in both clothing and bags. Follow the instructions included with your sewing pattern for the construction of the shirt … Basically, you press the bias tape in half, fold it over the hem of the fabric and sew. Use double bias tape to enclose the hem edge to remain as a visible feature. the Monthly Stitch and check out the rest of this linen shirt. Check the hem allowance on your pattern, and trim it down to equal half the width of your bias tape if needed. It can be made of contrasting or matching fabric. You can read all about my two Granvilles over on The Monthly Stitch blog but here I’d like to share with you how I finished that curved hem of my linen striped version. Stitch bias tape along entire hem at 1/4″ seam allowance. Follow the directions on the package for cutting your fabric at a 45 degree angle in long strips. In this case, the bias tape fabric is seen. ( Log Out /  If an invisible hem would be more appropriate to your garment, slip stitch this upper edge in place. This is best for sheer fabrics like chiffon, organza or silk; Using tape to cover the hem on the wrong side of the fabric; Covering both sides along a raw edge with a bias strip; USING BIAS TAPE. If your project has top stitching and a top stitched hem will look appropriate, as is the case with this shirt, you can machine stitch close to  the upper edge of the bias. In the case of stripes or plaids, a bias binding is particularly attractive since the design when cut on the bias … I was taught this by my mother years ago… I guess I thought everyone knew how to do this. There are many ways to apply bias tape to finish a hem. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. USING BIAS TAPE. Adjust the bias tape on the wrong side so that it covers the stitching from step 4 and pin in place. Hem stitch along the folded edge of the bias tape. A straight-grain strip will not curve without kinks and warping. Bias tape is perfect for a decorative finish on a curved edge because the bias will bend and ease around the curve. Using the sewing machine, top stitch around the top edge of the bias tape to finish the hem. I find it helpful to press from the wrong side, then the right side. Unfold one edge of the bias tape. Change ), You are commenting using your Google account. 23-jan-2016 - How to sew a curved hem – Hem curves with bias tape - Melly Sews Leave about 1/2″ of tape sticking off the each end of your seam if you have a flat hem to finish like this shirt. Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. Quilt Binding. Because bias tape is cut on the bias, it can stretch around curves to lie flat. Bias tape can be used directly on raw edges of fabric, or can be used to make other types of edging, including piping and binding seams. Make sure to cut the tape about 1″ longer than the hem you’re going to make. Check the hem allowance on your pattern, … To hem, unfold and pin the bias tape right sides together with the fabric. Vogue Fabrics stocks most Wrights packaged bias tapes, rick rack, piping, hem facing. The Monthly Stitch, I’ve made two Sewaholic Granville button down shirts. Do this by lining up the bias tape with the raw edge of the fabric, and using the tip of the iron to iron just a bit of the tape at a time while ahead of the iron you continue to line the bias tape up with the edge of the fabric. Pressing the bias tape to match the curve is such a good idea! If you have ends to deal with, open them up and tuck the raw edges in and fold it up again along the creases. In fact, once you understand the stuff, you will LOVE it! Buy products such as Wrights 1/2" Double Fold White Bias Tape, 3 Yd. Copyright © 2021 Melly Sews on the Foodie Pro Theme. For both methods: Discover (and save!) This video shows you how to work with single fold bias tape and sew it evenly and professionally around curved edges. First, you’ll want single fold bias tape 1/2″ wide or less. The same method used for adding a bias tape facing can pretty much be used for any type of curved hem as well. Now press the entire bias tape and seam allowance to the inside of the garment so that it cannot be seen from the right side. If it is and inside curve (like on the side of a shirt with a shirttail hem), when you fold the fabric up there isn’t enough to cover the curve, and for an outside curve (like a circle skirt) you end up with more fabric than the hemline when you fold up the raw edge. Your email address will not be published. Bring the bias tape tails together and pin them where they should meet, flush with the fabric. Press this seam allowance away from the hem edge. There are two options with Bias tape: Turn the tape completely to the inside (so it doesn't show on the outside of the garment) Halve the tape so that it edges the hem and is a visible feature. Tutorial: Finishing a curved hem with bias binding. Understitch the shirt hem to the bias tape, 1/8″ away from the seam line. (Where did you get this fabric – your usual local Joann’s?!). Working with bias tape on a straight edge certainly isnt hard but the curves can sometimes be a bit tricky. Since it is cut on the bias it can curve around edges extremely well. Change ). First, you’ll want single fold bias tape 1/2″ wide or less. Bias tapes are cut on the bias so they are a little stretchy which is good for sewing curved hems. I’ll show you how to finish armholes with bias tape, how to use bias tape on a neckline and also how to make a bias tape hem. Understitch the shirt hem to the bias tape, 1/8″ away from the seam line. Required fields are marked *. The adhesive on the hem tape, which is has two sides, gives a strong bond that lasts even through repeated laundering. Now you have miles of raw fabric strips to feed through your bias tape maker. There are all kinds of widths available and those that make various folding arrangements. When you’re finished, the tape will hold a curve that matches the edge of the fabric. The Granville puts a feminine spin on the tailoring of a traditional male shirt including details like curved shirt tails. Bias tape usually comes folded in half with the raw edges tucked under towards the center. Your email address will not be published. Overlap this folded edge with the end of the tape. With bias tape completely unfolded, sew together at pin. However, my old tutorial showing you about bias tape and cutting on the bias, is well, really old. To hem unfold and pin the bias tape right sides together with the fabric. Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. There are two options with Bias tape: Turn the tape completely to the inside (so it doesn't show on the outside of the garment) - using single fold bias tape. So here’s how you do it. Finishing Curved Hem with Bias Tape & Sewing Side Seams // Kalle Sewalong ... Today’s focus is on finishing an ultra curvy hem with bias tape. There are also a few methods to sew bias strips. Use matching thread if you do not wish for the stitches to be noticeable. This is great if you want a really narrow hem, alternatively, you could use hem facing which is basically the same thing, but typically the size of a hem fold. Super Skinny Pants with Boy, Oh Boy, Oh Boy! Excess fabric is trimmed out. I also use bias tape on curved hems. If necessary, stitch your strips together at the ends to create longer lengths. Give up? Due to its flexibility and finished look, bias tape is often used in place of a hem at the edge of a piece of fabric. In this post I’ll walk you through three ways. It does give the hem a nice drape, and if it’s done in a contrasting color or print you can fold it over only once and have a pretty accent piece. Quilting For Beginners Quilting Tips Quilting Tutorials Quilting Projects Quilting Designs Sewing Tutorials Beginner Quilting Sewing Projects Quilt Binding Tutorial * Binding 1-2-3. Align the raw edge of the bias tape with the raw edge of your hem with right sides together. Stitch the bias tape to the hem along the crease of the fold. To achieve a smooth finish, I bound this curvy hem with self-bias binding. One trick to get around this issue is hem curves with bias tape. To do this, first go find yourself one of these handy dandy tools: Mine is a Dritz Quilting brand 1/2″ (12 mm) bias tape maker. So what should you do? Just discovered this site and ALREADY LOVE LOVE LOVE it. Underlining fabric is often 03.09.2019 - Stricken How to sew a curved hem - Hem curves with bias tape, #Bias #curved #curves #Hem #Sew #Stricken #strickenbaby #tape For deep curves, you want to steam iron the bias tape into the same curve as the fabric before applying it. See it now? If you’re sewing the regular shirt, you’ll still have a little bit extra hanging off the placket after you’ve understitched. And not just because I’m about to undertake circle skirt #3 in the pursuit of Halloween costumes for the short people. If you get neurotic like me, you can even pattern match when joining your strips. Maybe I went a little overboard with pattern matching this shirt? The secret to getting a clean finish on a curved hemline is bias tape! As you may know, hemming a curved edge, especially one that undulates up and down and up and down again without undue puckering can be a tedious task if you try to simply press up twice and stitch. Narrow zig-zag hem, similar to serging. It’s not strictly necessary to do this, as bias tape won’t unravel much even on a raw edge, but I like to do it anyway. ( Log Out /  There are all kinds of widths available and those that make various folding arrangements. Hem tape is a way of hemming your clothes without the use of needles and threads. Press. To hem unfold and pin the bias tape right sides together with the fabric. If you’re having a hard time sewing bias tape on a curve, you can mark a … Once you have the whole length pressed into neat little bias tape it’s time to apply it. Stitch in the crease line closest to the raw edge. Iron the seam and pin the top edge of the bias tape in place. And it lacked some pictures. Melissa Mora is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. We also carry a wide range of these types of products by the yard or the roll from other suppliers. Fabulous work on this – congratulations!!! Bias tape usually comes folded in half with the raw edges tucked under towards the center fold. But for all of them you have to make sure that the part of the bias tape that stays underneath is caught in the stitching. For this 1/2″ finished bias we need to cut strips 1″ wide. Using a long strong pin can make pulling the starting end through the maker a little easier. Bias is used in many quilting techniques and sewing projects. One trick to get around this issue is hem curves with bias tape. Ease the bias into the curve and pin in place as needed. Fold hem allowance up and stitch around free edge of bias tape … Bias Tape is a wonderful thing. Bias tape usually comes with two folds, as pictured above. ( Log Out /  Single Fold Bias Tape. I dare you to find the joint  on this finished bias binding! Shop for Bias Tape in Notions & Sewing Accessories. Now press the bias tape up. Jun 25, 2020 - In our post on sewing a proper muslin, I mentioned underlining a few times and want to revisit the subject today. Stephanie star-spangledheart.blogspot.com June 13, 2013 So here’s how you do it. Use your edgestitch foot if you have one – it helps you get consistent stitching at this step. This is very useful when sewing the tape in a basic curve. ( Log Out /  Trim tails, press open and attach loose section of bias tape to hem between backstitches. It’s in the center of the second wide blue strip to the left of the right hand seam. May 18, 2019 - This Pin was discovered by Jennie Petty. The first one is the fastest. Fold the bias tape to the wrong side of the fabric. That was just for my own pure satisfaction. Once you get it started, you’ll have to hold the first inch or so in place while you press it. Lucky you! October 16, 2014 by Melissa Mora 6 Comments. In fact, it's something that I have used from the very beginning of my sewing adventure...and is not something to be feared. Bias binding is when bias tape is used to enclose the raw edge of a neckline, armhole, or hem. For this method of hemming you’ll need some single fold bias tape, either store bought or custom made. Press bias tape down. You may gently grade the seams if your fabric is very thick. SEWING BIAS TAPE HEM. Be careful around the curves – ensure you press smoothly here, and try to keep the … Great little tutorial! Now if you haven’t already done so, hop over to the Monthly Stitch and check out the rest of this linen shirt and take a gander at all the lovely indie sewing that’s been going on. Sorry I forgot to photograph this step until I’d finished stitching the seam so the more keen observer may notice that the seam has already been stitched even though the fabric is still on the machine bed since I put it back on to snap a pic. LOL! How to sew a curved hem - hem a curve with bias tape.

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